- Change a flat tyre
- Jump a car
- Change the air filter
- Spark plugs
- Check oil and transmission fluid
If you don't know how to do any of the above, we have created a list for you explaining how to do all of the above.
Change a flat tyre
You will be suprised how many people don't actually know how to do this. If you experience a wheel puncture while driving, slow right down to 5mph with your hazards (hazard lights) on if need be - expect other drivers to overtake you, at the very nearest opportunity, pull over somewhere safe (a lay-by or carpark would be ideal). DO NOT attempt to change your tyre on a hard shoulder or any other busy road, it is too dangerous and the emergency services should be able to help you with this rather than you risking your own life or putting others in danger.
To change a tyre you will need:
- Spare wheel with inflated tyre
- Tyre jack
- Wheel brace
- Wheel chocks (or brick/large stone)
- Warning triangle
Once you are situated in a safe location, make sure all passengers are out of the car and that you are able to change the tyre safely. Apply the handbrake, make sure your hazard lights are on, turn off the engine and if you have a warning triangle, place it 30 metres away from your vehicle, facing the direction of the traffic.
(Make sure that the spare wheel is inflated before you put it on.)
Put the Chocks (or brick/stone) behind the wheel that is diagonally opposite the flat tyre, even if you are on a level surface it is better to be safe than sorry, last thing you want is your car rolling down hill while you're trying to change it! Remove the hubcap or plastic covering on the wheel, you might need to use a screw driver to prize this off, this will then reveal the wheel nuts. Next use the wheel brace to loosen the nut (turn the nut half way) by turning in an anti-clockwise direction. This might be a tricky part as the wheel nuts can often be very tight, try to use your body weight to loosen the nuts.
Loosen all the nuts on the tyres. Check your car manual to see where to place the car jack, if you make a mistake here you could make the whole car collapse so it is always better to check first. Start to jack up the car, you can put the spare wheel under the jack for extra leverage should the jack buckle. Once you have the desired height with the jack (it should be high enough to get the spare wheel on it), finish removing all of the nuts and put them in a safe place. The flat tyre should be hanging from the threaded studs now. Put the flat tyre under the car where the spare tyre was previously for extra support.
Lift the spare wheel onto the studs, if you're not sure if you have the wheel the right way round, the air valve should be facing outwards. Now replace the nuts, replacing them in the same way that you took them off.
Remove the old tyre from under the body of the car and slowly release the jack. Make sure all of the nuts on the new wheel are tight - turning clockwise. Replace the hubcap or wheel cover. Voila!!!!!
Jump a car
You will need:
Jump Leads (x2)
A friend/neighbours working car
Open each car's hood and locate the battery on each. Identify the negative and positive terminals:
+ Positive (red cable)
- Negative (black cable)
Park the car that works (friend/neighbours car) as close as you can possibly get to the dead car, make sure they are not touching however. Turn off all electrics in both cars - engine, radio, air con, lights etc.
If you have them, make sure you wear safety gloves and goggles to keep you protected. Before attaching any cables, make sure that the dead battery does not have any leaks, cracks or damage, if so there is nothing you can do and you will need to either replace the battery or call a tow truck to pick you up.
You may need to clean both car's cables and terminal with a wire brush to remove any erosion.
The jumper wires will have heavy duty clamps attached to either end, black on one end and red on the other. Once connected to the car, the red and black ends should never touch as this could cause dangerous shocks or could damage both cars. This is how to set it up:
Connect the red clamp (+ - Positive) to the positive terminal of the dead battery. (dead car)
Connect the red clamp (+ - Positive) to the positive terminal of the good battery. (working car)
Connect the black clamp (- Negative) to the negative terminal of the good battery.
Connect the remaining black clamp to something that is grounded metal in the dead car. Look for shiny metal (not oily or painted) that is attached to the engine. This could be a nut, bolt or other protruding shiny metal. It is normal if you see a small spark when you connect to good ground. Connecting the negative ( - black) cable to the negative terminal of the dead battery is risky because it can mean that hydrogen gas that comes off the battery could ignite, so this should only be attempted as a last resort and if you can't find any other shiny metal. Make sure that no cables are dangling into the engine compartment where they could be at risk from moving parts.
Now start the working car and let the engine run for a few minutes. Rev the engine very slightly above idle for 30 to 60 seconds. You can do this to charge the battery in the dead car - because the starter in the dead car will draw most of the required current (well in excess of 100amps) from that battery not through the cables. No set of jumper cables is built to pass the current required. Charging the dead battery is a must. If 30 seconds doesn't do it, try charging for the full 60 seconds by keeping the engine at high idle. A good clean connection between the battery cables and the battery terminals is essential.
Try to start the dead car. If it does not start, shut the engine off and slightly twist or wiggle each of the four clamps to help ensure the electrical connection is complete. Restart the working car again. Allow 5 minutes for charging before attempting to start the disabled vehicle. If this doesn't work after a few attempts, you may have to just bite the bullet and replace the battery or get your car towed.
If the dead car starts, remove the jumper cables in reverse order in which they were attached, making sure that none of the cables or clamps touch each other or dangle into the engine compartment.
Disconnect the black clamp from grounded metal on the dead car.
Disconnect the black clamp from the negative (-) terminal of the good battery.
Disconnect the red clamp from the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.
Disconnect the red clamp from the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.
Replace any positive (+) red post protective covers if applicable.(You have had to remove or open these in the beginning) These covers help prevent accidental short circuiting the battery.
Keep the recently-disabled car's engine running. Run the car above idle (slightly revved up with your foot on the gas) for 5 minutes and then on or above idle for 20 minutes before turning it off. This should give the battery enough charge to start the car again. If it does not, you probably have a dead battery or a dying alternator.
Change the air filter
Please see the video from youtube.com below to show how to change your air filter.
Spark Plug
We have found a video to help you establish whether or not the spark plug in your car is faulty, and we also found one of how to change it afterwards!
And a video explaining how to change/replace your spark plugs:
Check the oil and transmission fluid
For oil, pull out the dipstick then wipe it off with an old rag. You'll see minimum and maximum lines, and you want to see the level right at the maximum line. A little over is OK, but if you have too much there will be too much pressure and you can blow a gasket. For the transmission fluid, keep the car running. Find the dipstick (often yellow or red), pull it out and wipe it off. You'll see hot and cold lines. If your car has been running and is below the cold line, your fluid is low.
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